UNDERSTATED & CURATED
Christian Tana, director of Parker & Co. explains the term 'soft masculinity' in formalwear ...Relaxed silhouettes have seen a strong resurgence in recent years, from baggy jorts and relaxed shirts to barrel-leg jeans, the streetwear scene has been flooded with loose-fitting clothing that reimagines contours of the past, reworking them into modern garments. But what about formal events? Join Western Australia Wedding & Bride’s Stef Grinberg as she sits down with Christian Tana, the director of Parker & Co. to get an insight into how groomswear and men’s formalwear have changed, entering a new era referred to as ‘soft masculinity’.
Parker & Co. first established in 1895, is now led by father and son team Victor and Christian Tana. The pair take inspiration from their international travel to Italy, returning with a collection of curated items to their store in Australia. Specialising in luxury clothing, Parker & Co. seamlessly blends artistry with aesthetics, crafting a new movement within the Australian fashion sphere.
“We focus on craftsmanship, fabrication and fit, offering everything from formal suiting to relaxed, modern occasion wear with a distinctly European sensibility,” said Tana.
The company’s collaboration with leading fashion houses including Zegna, Brioni, Pal Zileri, Kiton and Canali ensures there are “exceptional fabrics and craftsmanship across all categories of wedding dressing … from the suit to the shirting, to shoes and cufflinks or a lapel pin,” said Tana. The entire process from start to finish is designed to feel “effortless and work within the wedding brief and budget,” he said.
Image courtesy of Parker & Co
Written by Stef Grinberg
WHAT IS SOFT MASCULINITY?
What you wear says a lot about you as it’s how you express yourself to the outside world. Clothing forms perception, and on a day as important as that of your wedding, feeling truly like yourself is most important. Tana says that “romance is emerging through fabrication and silhouette,” continuing to explain that “we’re seeing softer cloth, fluid drape, and a greater appreciation for garments that feel personal rather than purely formal.” The term soft masculinity is for those seeking comfort and style all at once, first gaining mainstream popularity online in the 2010s. Now, the term is used to define outfits which embody the effortlessly cool aesthetic. Gone is the time of restricted movement found in rigid and overly formal wedding suit styles. Grooms have started to branch out and, as such, this shift in style has been noted and defined.
“Soft masculinity is about feeling comfortable in your own skin; less structure, more ease, and a focus on pieces that feel natural rather than forced,” explains Tana.
With the trend cycle returning to an emphasis on comfort above all else; contemporary, relaxed formalwear is where movement, form, tone and texture shines. Groomswear has had an ever-growing demand for lighter colours; think soft neutrals, washed tones and muted pastels. Further, the importance of “luxurious fabrics that move naturally” and “soft tailoring … has become highly desirable in the last couple of years, especially for outdoor or destination weddings,” Tana said.
REMEMBER: LESS IS MORE
With infinite suiting options available on the market, it can be difficult to know where to begin to get that effortless look, but Tana explains the basics.
“Start with fabrication, choose a cloth that feels beautiful to wear,” once the material is decided, it becomes infinitely easier to move onto the next step. If you’re still stuck on what to look for, Tana would go on to explain that you should search for “something with softness and movement … simplify the structure and keep the palette restrained.” The importance of feeling comfortable on your wedding day cannot be understated, after all it is an extensive day! Tana places importance on the fact that material is “particularly important for a day that spans many hours and moments, especially in the warmer summer months.” Unstructured tailoring is lighter, breathable and “allows the garment to move with the body rather than against it.” The effortless aesthetic is in, and as Tana goes on to explain, “the result should feel natural and not overtly styled.”
DOWN TO THE LAST DETAIL
Each button, cufflink and belt hold a purpose deeper than purely functional. This purpose is linked with a resurgence in romance in menswear with Tana explaining that “it’s about creating a sense of intimacy in how a groom presents himself.” The style of groomswear projects a certain image and idea, with structured suits leaning to an older approach to wedding suiting while the relaxed fit sits in a more modern space. Tana says that the key is to balance these elements lies in you “still hav[ing] structure where you need it but soften[ing] everything else.” Tana would go on to say that “it often comes down to subtle details such as an open collar, a softly draped shirt, a tonal pocket square,” even the fabrics, textures and tones within the material is used to convey emotion. Tana would conclude that ultimately, your wedding suit should “feel effortless rather than overt.”